Una tarde de noviembre del año 2000 recibí una llamada en mi celular de un hombre con acento extranjero. Se presentó como «Miguel» y, aunque era maestro de escuela primaria, me explicó que se le había ocurrido abrir una agencia de edecanes en su ciudad, México df. Para «prestigiar» su negocio y diferenciarse del resto, buscaba contratar señoritas argentinas. Después de hablar unos minutos con él, pude comprender, primero, que las edecanes eran lo que nosotros llamamos «promotoras», segundo, que alguna de las tantas empresas para las que yo había trabajado hacía unos años había conservado mis datos y mis fotos y, tercero, que de cierta manera misteriosa, esta información había cruzado fronteras y llegado a manos del señor Miguel.
La crisis del 2001 me ayudó a armar valijas y a no posponer más ese viaje que (años después lo supe con claridad), ya había comenzado para mí desde el mismo instante en que el mexicano me hiciera la propuesta. Sin embargo, hasta principios de Febrero, los miedos de mi madre, las sospechas de mi amiga Fernanda (casi una hermana) y la posibilidad de terminar en algún burdel de Tijuana regenteada por el tal Miguel, habían logrado retenerme una y otra vez.
Por eso, a fines de ese mismo mes, yo debutaba como inmigrante ilegal en un país exportador de inmigrantes ilegales por excelencia.
Si bien pronto estuvo claro de que no trabajaría en un burdel de Tijuana, nada más llegó a lograr nunca esa transparencia. El estilo de trabajo de los mexicanos era, en el mejor de los casos, informal. Más preciso y honesto, caótico. En esa agencia donde, además de argentinas, comenzaron a llegar venezolanas, brasileras y colombianas, e incluso una pobre rusa desconcertada que jamás entendió ni una palabra de lo que se le decía pero sonreía a toda hora y tenía unos ojos increíbles, no había nada parecido a un contrato, ni a un trámite de residencia (todas trabajábamos no siendo otra cosa que turistas). Mucho menos, una agenda de fechas, horarios, o direcciones. La chica que atendía el teléfono un día, no lo hacía al siguiente ya que pasaba a formar parte de algún grupo de edecanes en la presentación de un nuevo modelo de Peugeot. Las solicitudes de señoritas se anotaban en papelitos que, invariablemente, se perdían. Si un restaurante que inauguraba había pedido dos «niñas güeras» (chicas rubias), debía de conformarse con dos morochas; si las requerían con vestimenta formal, llegaban en jeans; si las querían discretas, con seguridad, las señoritas no sabrían esa noche cómo ocultarse las pechugas al aire.
Pero, increíblemente, la agencia de edecanes del señor Miguel (personaje que fuera a buscarme personalmente al aeropuerto portando un gran cartelón que decía «Bienvenida Laura» y que tenía un interesante parecido con Al Pacino en Scarface pero con sobrepeso) funcionaba de «poca madre». Las argentinas, en especial, éramos consideradas bellas y cultas. Y tanto insistían en esto los hombres mexicanos (y hasta las mujeres) que todas nos lo creímos. Y ya no fui Laurita en México, sino una cruza de Penélope Cruz con Scarlett Johansson en Hollywood, y un toque no menos importante que Victoria Ocampo (muchos supieron de mi gusto por la lectura y alabaron los pocos cuentos que escribí en esos nueve años que duró mi aventura azteca).
En los primeros meses que trabajé en este ambiente, hubo alguien en particular que creyó con fe absoluta en esta descarriada invención de sudamericanas glamorosas y sofisticadas. Y, con más fe aún, creyó en mí. Para su desgracia, sin duda.
Se llamaba Francisco Javier Ramírez Morales. Se presentaba así, con todas las letras y agregaba además, un «servidor y amigo» y una mano tendida. No muy alto, moreno, delgado, con una dentadura impecable y unos lentes que mantenía obsesivamente limpios, trabajaba en el mantenimiento de las computadoras de la agencia.
Junto a este muchacho de por entonces 27 años, amable, tímido, huérfano de padre y enamorado de mí hasta la estupidez, viví uno de los momentos más especiales y también más extraños de mi estancia en México.
Durante muchos de mis fines de semana libres, algo compartimos sinceramente Francisco y yo: los viajes. A lo mejor por ser los dos de Sagitario, el signo de los aventureros, nada disfrutábamos más. Cada sábado, nos gustaba levantarnos muy temprano y salíamos en el auto de él a la ruta, casi sin un plan definido, nada más que un destino probable que podía ser alterado si así se nos daba la gana y allá íbamos, siempre calzados con zapatillas por si había que subir volcanes, trepar pirámides, adentrarse en caminos de barro, caminar kilómetros por mercados de comida dudosa pero riquísima, calles coloniales, tianguis, o salas de museos.
Fue así como una mañana de domingo cerca ya del medio día, en uno de esos viajes nuestros, camino a San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, que vi a lo lejos, en medio de un paraje totalmente desierto, las paredes blancas del cementerio.
—Ahí hay uno —dije—. ¿Paramos?
Francisco disminuyó la velocidad y trató de ver algo por el espejo retrovisor.
—No creo que sea muy lindo. ¿No quieres buscar otro?
—No, ese está bien —insistí—. Voy a poder sacar fotos sin que nadie me mire raro.
Francisco sonrió, en su papel comprensivo y tolerante de siempre, y sacó el auto de la carretera. Con esa falta total de normas y de prudencia que caracteriza a los mexicanos para manejar, condujo el auto por el borde de la ruta más de trescientos metros hasta llegar a un camino. El camino, en no muchas mejores condiciones que el borde de la ruta, parecía llegar directamente hasta la puerta del cementerio.
—No sé si podamos entrar. Desde acá veo que la verja está cerrada con candado —dijo Francisco que, gracias a su miopía, muchas veces saludaba a desconocidos confundiéndolos con amigos.
Lo miré, simplemente, y Francisco volvió a la obediencia y a la sonrisa y así siguió hasta darse cuenta de que aquél camino estaba realmente en pésimo estado y, como pidiéndome disculpas, me preguntó:
—¿No te importa si seguimos a pie? Tengo miedo de estropear el auto.
Yo, que era mala pero no maldita, le sonreí también y le respondí que sí, que ningún problema. Además, acababa de comprobar que la verja estaba efectivamente cerrada con candado y no quería escucharlo decir «¿Has visto? Es que no me oyes, Laura». Si mi humor era perfecto, él no iba a querer arruinarlo con reproches.
Sin embargo, al mirar la entrada del cementerio, Francisco arrugó la frente y algo hubiera dicho si yo no lo hubiera interrumpido con uno de mis frecuentes arrebatos de entusiasmo:
¡Mirá! ¡La verja está cerrada, pero la pared de aquél lado tiene un agujero!
Corrí sin esperar a que él me contestara y, al dar la vuelta, vi que la pared no sólo tenía un agujero sino que estaba parcialmente derrumbada. Era tan fácil entrar al cementerio por allí como lo hubiera sido de haber estado la verja abierta de par en par. Trepé los escombros sin mucho cuidado y en unos segundos estuve dentro observándolo todo.
En un primer momento, me molestó la idea de que Francisco, como con la verja, también hubiera tenido razón en otro de sus comentarios: no era un sitio muy interesante, ni original, ni pintoresco. Era un cementerio pobre, de gente pobre, con cruces hechas de madera y latas de pintura como floreros. Nada que ver con los típicos panteones mexicanos casi siempre adornados con figuras en colores rojos, verdes y violetas, o con flores casi imposibles como las rosas azules y otras a las que tenías que tocar para asegurarle a tus ojos que no eran de plástico. La muerte, en México, no era una desgracia, sino una calavera vestida de señora elegante, un ataúd forrado en terciopelo y exhibido a la venta en una vidriera que daba a la calle en una funeraria llamada La Económica, un dulce para saborear el Día de Muertos, un premio al final de un juego de pelota para ser aceptado entre los Dioses.
Pero no en aquél lugar. En aquél lugar la muerte se volvía igual a todas las muertes, común y corriente, triste y miserable, llena de lágrimas. Pero tampoco tan trágica, siquiera. Allí, en ese cementerio, la tragedia quedaba superada por la pobreza. Al no haber mausoleos adornados con esculturas imponentes sino tumbas al ras de la tierra con virgencitas de yeso, al no haber placas de bronce sino maderitas de cajón de manzana escritas a mano o banquitos de plástico para sentarse a rezar en vez de reclinatorios frente a altares de mármol, la muerte perdía magnificencia, perdía grandeza, perdía misterio. Los muertos enterrados a mi alrededor eran «muertitos» nomás, como decía la gente de pueblo en México, los muertitos de la carretera a San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato.
No saqué la cámara de fotos de la mochila, decepcionada por ese cementerio con tan pocos atractivos y solamente me puse a deambular por ahí para no dar mi brazo a torcer y reconocerle a Francisco que había tenido razón, que había tenido razón en todo. Contemplé una lata con apenas dos florcitas raquíticas, quise creer que había cierto (muy poco) trabajo artesanal en una de las cruces y, casi sin darme cuenta, leí una de esas maderitas escritas a mano que eran las lápidas. (No recuerdo el nombre que llevaba: quizás «Mercedes Susana Galíndez Quiróz» o «Pablo Andrés Benavidez Soto»), pero sí recuerdo las fechas:
«4 de Febrero de 2000- 6 de Julio de 2003», decía.
Un nene muy chico muerto hacía apenas dos meses. Me quedé mirándola unos segundos. Siempre me ha provocado una sensación incómoda la muerte de alguien tan joven.
Caminé un poco más y leí la placa (la madera) de una tumba que tenía atada a la cruz una cintita azul y descubrí otra criatura. Más allá, me llamó la atención una tumba adornada con piedras blancas como formando un dibujo. Tampoco recuerdo el nombre de quien descansaba allí, pero nunca voy a olvidar la pequeña frase torcida agregada en tinta roja y con las letras muy juntas para que esas tres palabras entraran: «Fuiste nuestro sueñito», decía. Por las fechas, un bebé.
No sé si pensé en la casualidad de haber dado con las tumbas de tres chicos chiquitos. Creo que, por un instante, no supe qué pensar. Me quedé mirando aquella palabra, «sueñito» y me sobresalté un poco cuando escuché toser a alguien detrás de mí. Me había olvidado de Francisco.
La siguiente tumba no tenía flores, ni adornos. Parecía que nadie la visitaba desde hacía mucho tiempo y en ella estaba enterrada una niña de ocho años. Al lado, con botellas de plástico como floreros, yacía otro bebé. Y en otra, al final de la hilera y bajo el único árbol de todo el cementerio, se recordaba a un pequeño a quien, como su placa contaba, «Se lo llevó la carretera».
Fue de repente que cedí al impulso obvio de mirarlo todo, de leerlo todo, de comprobar que esas placas, esas maderas escritas, pintadas, talladas, grabadas a fuego, no mentían y que aquel era un cementerio mucho más especial de lo que yo podía haberme imaginado.
Durante un rato di vueltas entre esos ligeros montecitos de tierra cubiertos de maleza. Miré y leí en uno y otro lado, hice cuentas entre fechas y fechas, volví a mirar y me detuve al fin, con un suspiro. Confirmé que el mayor de todos ellos tenía apenas catorce años. Y otro, uno más, quizás tendría trece. No estaba segura, la placa de madera había sido pintada por primera y última vez en 1990 y mucha lluvia había caído desde entonces.
Durante un buen rato, me quedé quieta, callada, intentando comprender el motivo por el que existía un lugar así, un sitio producto de una cultura capaz de exponer sin conflictos la muerte joven, la muerte infantil, la muerte chiquita. Y de brindarle todo el protagonismo. Y no quise juzgar, ni condenar, ni sentir repugnancia, pero mi propia cultura me jugaba en contra, la cultura de un pueblo muchísimo más joven y sin ninguna raíz indígena sino puramente europea, de inmigrantes italianos, españoles, polacos, alemanes, franceses, corridos por las guerras y el hambre. De gente que, con desesperación, deseaba alejarse de la muerte, olvidarla, negarla. La muerte era abandono, un adiós, una pérdida. Mi pueblo honraba la vida, hablábamos con libertad del sexo y en susurros de la muerte. Casi todos los niños argentinos sabían cómo habían sido engendrados pero casi ninguno había asistido, ni asistiría hasta ser lo bastante mayor, a un entierro. Muchísimo menos, si ese entierro, era, Dios no lo quisiera, de otro niño.
Me di vuelta y miré a Francisco a la cara. No sé, a lo mejor le exigía, le reclamaba explicaciones. O a lo mejor, por primera vez, le pedía, le rogaba un abrazo sincero a ese muchacho no muy alto, de piel oscura, que había tenido la tonta, mala, ridícula idea de enamorarse de mí. En ese cementerio de pobres, en aquel sitio que mi razón juzgaba equivocado, yo necesitaba del consuelo y la mentira. Que me consolaran como a una niña por aquello que no tenía remedio y que me mintieran para que esas tumbas de madera y lata no me recordaran que los niños también mueren y que, si ellos no pueden esquivar a la muerte, menos podría hacerlo yo con mis piernas mucho más cansadas.
Pero, esa tarde, Francisco no me abrazó. También él estudiaba el lugar, pensativo.
—Es un cementerio de angelitos —dijo—. Mi abuelita me habló alguna vez de panteones como éste, pero yo nunca había estado en ninguno.
No le contesté. Se me había hecho un nudo en la garganta. Nos quedamos allí parados, quietos, escuchando el viento y el silencio, como si nuestro viaje, momentáneamente, hubiera perdido importancia.
El calor fue haciéndose cada vez más fuerte y, aunque la fascinación continuaba, me di cuenta de que comenzaba a dolerme la cabeza y de que estaba empapada en sudor. La frente de Francisco apenas si brillaba con unas gotas de transpiración y una vez más envidié cómo ese hombre se mantenía seco y prolijo bajo temperaturas desesperantes mientras que yo regresaba de las excursiones apestando y con el cabello hecho una maraña inmanejable.
—¿Vamos? —le pregunté al fin.
Fue él quien no me contestó entonces. Me pareció que estaba escuchando algo. Yo miré hacia todos lados pero no vi nada.
—¿Vamos? —repetí.
Francisco asintió y echamos a andar hacia la pared derrumbada. Fue delante de la tumba con botellas como floreros cuando yo también creí escuchar algo. Un susurro, que podría haber sido el roce de la maleza o el viento jugando con las ramas del único árbol. Seguí caminando. La espalda de Francisco se alejaba de mí cada vez más. Era raro que no me esperara.
Cerca ya de la salida, me detuve de pronto frente a la tumba de la cinta azul. La cinta se había aflojado con el viento y las pequeñas ráfagas amenazaban con llevársela lejos.
—Francisco, un minuto —dije, pero me pareció que él no me había escuchado porque continuó caminando.
Me agaché para ajustar la cinta y fue en ese momento que oí, muy claro, un quejido, un balbuceo, o el ruido que hace el aire cuando es sorbido por una nariz llena de mocos.
Muy despacio, miré hacia atrás. Nada se movía en aquel lugar de tierra, malezas y escombros. Salvo, quizás, el reflejo del sol jugueteando con el metal oxidado de las latas de pintura. Y ese reflejo dañaba la vista y yo no podía estar muy segura de qué estaba viendo.
Francisco me esperaba junto a la salida. Pero estaba de espaldas a mí, tal vez comprobando que el auto estuviera bien. Cuando llegué a su lado me miró sin sonreírme y noté que transpiraba más que de costumbre. Mucho más.
—¿Te pasa algo? —le pregunté preocupada.
Él fue hacia el auto y yo lo detuve:
—Esperame. Al final no saqué ni una foto.
No alcancé a abrir mi mochila, cuando Francisco me tomó por un brazo. Aunque el sudor le mojaba la palma de la mano, su apretón fue firme:
—¿Quieres una foto de éste lugar, Laura? ¿De verdad?
Lo miré a los ojos. Y me di cuenta de que si tantas veces me había hecho la tonta con él, de que si tantas veces le había mentido, o le había contestado cualquier cosa con tal de no seguir escuchándolo, podía volver a hacerlo una vez más. Podía seguir mirándolo a los ojos y contestarle que sí, que por qué no, que cuál era el problema. Y ocultar la verdad, ocultar esas tremendas ganas de sacar la foto y verla enseguida en la pantallita de la cámara, de verla sin demoras. Porque estaba segura, triste, dolorosa, esperanzadamente segura, de que ellos estarían allí, pacientes, esperándome, sentados sobre sus tumbas con los brazos estirados hacia mí en la ilusión de que podría alzarlos, apretarlos contra mi pecho y llevármelos conmigo. A todos. A algunos. A uno solo aunque sea.
—No —me dijo Francisco aunque yo no había dicho una palabra.
Y esa negativa alcanzó para que dejara la cámara en la mochila y caminara hacia el auto.
No dejé de mirar por la ventanilla mientras nos alejábamos.
Y una media hora después, cuando el cementerio de los angelitos había quedado varios kilómetros atrás, Francisco volvió a hablarme con suavidad:
— Laura, tira eso.
Miré mi mano y vi una cinta azul aferrada en ella. Despacio, bajé la ventanilla y dejé que el viento se la llevara a donde sea que van todas las cintas azules
[Texto e ilustración publicados en nuestra novena revista de literatura y artes]
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